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Teak Deck Care – the good news is that doing less is often more

For boat owners, a teak deck represents a wonderful visual asset – but at a cost. And here I’m talking not the original price, but the maintenance. Whereas a GRP deck only needs the occasional hose-down – the sort of task one can complete almost casually while a supping a cup of tea – or something stronger – the teak deck is a neurotic prima-donna that must be primped and preened to ensure that its honey-coloured lustre never fades. As a consequence, the owners fuss over those sweeping strakes with the kind of attention rarely accorded even the rarest orchid.

Little do they know that their labours could be doing their teak deck more harm than good. In truth they might have done well to follow one of medicine’s basic ethics:

Primum non nocere – First Do No Harm

Teak is a tropical hardwood, a member of the Lamiaceae family, rather implausibly related to mint. It originates from S.E Asia – still its main source – but is now grown commercially (and sustainably) elsewhere.

Teak’s principal attraction for marine use is its durability. It contains oils and other chemical compounds that give it an exceptional degree of natural protection. Another characteristic is a high fibre content which makes it both elastic and resistant to abrasion. All in all, the perfect timber for exterior joinerwork

But at a cost, since it’s never been a cheap material. What most of us know as teak decks are relatively thin strips laid onto a moulded GRP substrate. 10-12mm thick planks can be considered luxurious, 6-8mm is more common and the cheapest decks are hardly more than a parsimonious veneer on a plywood base.

Teak’s potential downfall lies in the fact that it takes on a dull shade of grey when weathered. Many consider it unsightly and the impulse to do something about it is strong. Unfortunately the consequent damage can be severe. In common with all timbers, teak has a grain – the outcome of the tree’s annular growth rings. Hard and soft densities alternate, mirroring the seasonal variations in growth rate due to summer cold versus winter warmth, or parched and rainy seasons. The upshot of this inconsistency is that, when scrubbed hard, the softer material gets scoured away fastest leaving prominent ridges in the planking. The remedy usually involves a belt sander – this, of course, removing yet more material to start the destructive cycle again.

What to do?

Tough it might be, but teak must be treated gently. NEVER USE A CONVENTIONAL SCRUBBING BRUSH OR A POWER JET CLEANER.

• The best tool is either a sponge type mop or a very soft deck brush with ‘feathered’ bristles. Always sponge across the grain – NEVER along the grain.
• As a cleaning fluid use a mild detergent dissolved in water – preferably fresh water, but I’ve had good results with clean sea water heaved in from over the side.
• If the teak is badly soiled or stained, follow the detergent with an application of one of the proprietary teak cleaners containing oxalic acid. If you think this might damage the teak, bear mind that it’s oxalic acid that makes rhubarb stalks poisonous. The way I see it is that if it doesn’t harm rhubarb for teak it will be a breeze!. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and be patient. Bleaches take time to work. Rinse off well once you’re satisfied.
• An occasional oiling does no harm and will enhance the natural appearance of the timber. It will also help replace the natural oils lost to weathering. Use Tung oil and apply it sparingly – repeated thin coats rather than a single lavish flooding. You don’t want to convert your deck into a skating rink. And, with a white spirit dampened rag, wipe up any spills onto surrounding glassfibre. If allowed to dry, the oil will stain the gelcoat.
• Finally, acknowledge the fact that, when exposed to the weather, teak’s natural colour is always going to be greyish. Learning to like it is the kindest thing you can do to your deck.

Related Reading:  Waterline Stains